Ceiling medallions used in conjunction with a chandelier are a great way to add architectural interest to your home -- especially newer homes that don't have much in the way of architectural accents. Today's lightweight polyurethane medallions are much easier to install than the original, plaster-cast type. They look like the older originals, but are light and inexpensive.

Ceiling medallions are particularly appropriate in more formal spaces of your home, such as dining room, foyer or powder room. They are available in a variety of styles -- from ornate to plain and simple.


A well-chosen ceiling medallion brings a classic architectural accent to an ordinary room.
 
New, polyurethane ceiling medallions are lightweight and can be installed with double-stick tape and finish nails. In this installation, the chandelier's chain and electrical cord are concealed by a fabric sleeve.
 
How do I determine what size of medallion to use for my room?

The size of the ceiling medallion you select is a function of the size of the chandelier with which it will be used. The rule of thumb for chandeliers is that they should be at least half the width of your dining room table. The ceiling medallion should have about the same diameter as the chandelier. That's a general guideline, but some variation based on your preference is fine.
    Can I paint or faux-finish a ceiling medallion?

    
Yes. Paint or finish your medallion before it is installed. Some people prefer to leave them plain white, or painted to match the room color. Another attractive technique for some rooms is to create an antique finish using a base-coat of paint followed by a gold antique-finish applied with a rag (figure A). An antique finish like this can highlight the relief pattern of an ornate medallion.
Figure A

Materials:
Ceiling medallion
Cordless drill
Double-stick tape
Hammer
Finishing nails
Nail-set
Caulk


Steps:
1. If you're not comfortable with electrical wiring, you may want to enlist the services of a professional electrician for handling the wiring of the chandelier. If you decide to do the work yourself, follow appropriate safety precautions.

Important: Before beginning any electrical work, turn off the power to the fixture at the breaker box (figure B). As an added precaution, put a piece of tape over the switch to ensure that someone else doesn't inadvertently restore power while you're working.

Figure B
2. Loosen the fastener that holds the chandelier's canopy, and remove the canopy to expose the electrical wires and the supporting stem (figure C). Unscrew the wire nuts and loosen the stem that holds the chandelier. Pull the wires through the stem.
Figure C

3. Drill four strategically placed pilot holes in the canopy (figure D) in flat spaces where they won't be too conspicuous. The pilot holes will be used for installing the finish nails that will fasten the medallion to the ceiling.
Figure D

4. Apply double-sided tape to the medallion surface that will contact the ceiling (figure E). The tape will help hold the medallion secure long enough for you to install the nails. This is particularly helpful if you're installing a medallion by yourself since it will mean you'll need only two hands, instead of four, for the process.
Figure E

5. The next step is to fish the wires through the medallion, and re-attach the chandelier. Again, you may want to have this portion of the installation done by an electrician. In our demonstration, a fabric sleeve (figure F) was added to conceal the chandelier's chain and to add a touch of color and texture to the room.
Figure F

6. With the medallion temporarily mounted with the double-sided tape, install the finish nails into the previously drilled pilot holes (figure G).
Figure G

7. Once the nails are installed, counter-sink them using a nail-set.

8. Conceal the nail heads with white caulk.

If you're mounting a white medallion to a white ceiling, you may want to caulk around the circumference of the medallion to conceal the edge where the medallion meets the ceiling. In our demonstration, a white medallion was mounted against a darkerceiling -- creating a natural shadow -- so the extra caulk was not used.




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All text and images ©2007 by Sharon Hanby-Robie.